Weekly on-line Oil Painting Classes with Daniel Edmondson

   

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Orange and Grapes photo 1

Orange and grapes photo 2

Orange and Grapes photo 3 (lighter version)

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*Notes about Copyright:

  • Feel completely free to sell this painting without any mention of my name or this course unless you want to
  • In fact, we recommend that you sell your paintings from this course
  • These photos cannot be shared, lent out, sold, or rented

© Copyright Notice: These photographs, online videos, and DVDs are copyrighted by Daniel Edmondson. All Rights Reserved. As the purchaser you are granted license to use these for your individual paintings while in the course provided by Daniel Edmondson only. These photographs can’t be lent, sold, given away, reproduced (other than printing for your own use for the purpose of this course), or be shown in a group setting as in a classroom whether a fee is charged or not or in any other fashion without written permission from Daniel Edmondson. Please respect this copyright and the spirit of this course.

Painting Class Supply List

Daniel Edmondson Fine Art

 

Brushes

Artists can bring pretty much what they are used to using or utilize what is mentioned below.  I suggest bristle filberts.  Filberts are kind of like using a flat and a round brush all in one.  One will find they can get a lot of use out of them with out buying a whole bunch of brushes.  You can later decide if using a flat or round is more beneficial.  To start I suggest buying numbers 1, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12.  If you are on a budget it's good to at least buy 2, 4, 6(or 8). Good brushes are Silver Grand Prix filberts or a less expensive version called pro stroke made by creative mark(you can get these at Jerry’s artarama or ASW supply online) and Royal Sable Langenickel model 5590 # 2, 8, 16, 44 if you can find them(check misterart.com the #2 and the #8 are the most important and cheapest too)….they recently quit making them…these are a mongoose hair brush that really holds the paint nicely…a good substitute is a extra long filbert made by pro stroke made by creative mark as mentioned above.

 

Paint

The palette of paint I usually use consists of Titanium white(Rembrandt) and/or cremnitz white(Winsor/Newton),  cad yellow lemon(Rembrandt), cad yellow deep(Rembrandt), cad red medium(Utrecht), yellow ochre(Rembrandt), Tera Rosa(Winsor/Newton), alizarin crimson(Utrecht), Permanent Rose(Winsor/Newton),  Transparent Oxide Red (Rembrandt), olive green(Rembrandt), Winsor green(Winsor Newton) or phthalo green (Rembrandt), ultramarine blue deep(Rembrandt),  Ivory black(Rembrandt), Permanent violet medium(Rembrandt).

This is the order they are layed out on my palette.

If you can not find Transparent oxide red us burnt sienna that are almost the same…also if you can not find terra rose try venetian red(just a little cooler) and olive green can easily be mixed from black and cad yellow deep.

***NOTE*** there really is no magic in these paints, this is just what I am used to using …pretty much any will work if you have a good assortment of colors.

 

Medium: I primarily use walnut oil as my medium…less toxic than what I used in the past which was maroger, or the standard 1/3 damar varnish, 1/3 stand oil, 1/3 real turp mix. Sometimes I will use liquin as a medium but rarely as it has not been time tested. Special note I have gotten away from using turp when I paint and only use it to clean brushes at the end of the day(too toxic).

 

Canvas or painting surface

You can work on canvas or board.  Cotton duct canvas is less expensive than linen canvas.   it is best to coat it with 3 additional coats of gesso then lightly sand when dry to smooth it out a bit. Another economical (and better) surface you can paint on is hardboard (like ¼ in Masonite or ½ in MDF board ). If you are planning to make your own it's much like how one would approach painting a wall.  I suggest using an acrylic gesso or traditional gesso. Once you have picked the size of board you are going to cover, apply three even uniform coats(not too thick…if your gesso is thick thin it down a bit with water).  Allow each coat to dry before moving forward.  It's probably a good idea to several at one setting.  Lastly, lightly sand the surface to a smooth finish then tone using thinned raw umber oil paint and let dry for a couple of days.  For the class I would bring at least 3 or 4 canvases or panels (about 12x16, 14"x18" or 16''x 20”) unless you want to work larger or smaller. 

 

Other stuff

Viva Paper towels, 12x16 paper palette or a 12x16 piece of glass (Preferred), Portable easel, notebook, small hand mirror. Books/magazine clippings of artists you like, pencil or charcoal if you like to draw first, Q-tips.

 

Acrylic painters

Similar colors to the ones listed above…I painted for 10 yrs in acrylic before the switch to oils(oils are not better just easier) You will just want to work in a small area until resolved to get the ideal wet into wet look you may want before it all dries.

The acrylic palette of paint I usually use consists of Titanium white ,  cad yellow lemon, cad yellow deep, cad red medium, yellow ochre, red oxide, alizarin crimson, Permanent Rose,  burnt sienna, olive green, phthalo green or viridian, ultramarine blue deep,  Ivory black, Permanent violet .

   

 

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